The Wondrous Falles d’Isil Festival

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I am in the pitch dark, making my way down a mountain with a burning log over my shoulder. This is the unique Falles d’isil Festival of the high Pyrenees, and it is nominated for a UNESCO heritage listing. It’s an ancient tradition in which men show themselves off to women. And I'm one of them. As expected, the crew didn’t tell me what I was going to do. But because this was a special activity, I got to choose whether I want to take pictures, or join in the festival myself, which normally doesn’t allow outsiders to partake. They did tell me it would take place in complete darkness,so

taking pictures didn’t seem like an option anyway…  

I am intrigued by this tradition. The people around me are having a good time. Some are laughing, is that a good or a bad sign? Who cares, I’m just going to do it. Xavi does give me a warning: “It’s physically demanding. Do be careful and if you don’t feel comfortable, just say so. There will be 59 other people and they will help you, whatever happens...” Whatever happens? That’s not filling me with confidence!

It’s 7pm. We head into the mountains in cars. I notice an unusual amount of timber and tree trunks. A lumberjack is splitting logs by cutting the bases, and then forcing wedges into them. I’m not sure what’s going on. The locals seem tense, yet excited. This festival fills them with a sense of pride, as only people born in the town of Isil are allowed to take part… And me, their special guest.

At the top of the mountain people are singing, dancing, eating and drinking exuberantly. I am told to go and find some firewood. We enjoy each other’s company as we wait for the sun to set. Then, the large wood stack is set alight, a signal to the hundreds of people in the village below that it’s time to begin. Though it’s still a mystery to me what is about to begin. Once the fire is truly burning, the split logs are placed inside it until the ends have caught fire.

Then things happen very quickly, a long line is formed and it’s time to put our shoulders into it. Quite literally. Off we go, with one of the burning logs (which weighs about 30 kilos) over our shoulder. It’s terrifying and it takes time to get the hang of it, the only light I have is the burning log of the guy in front of me, and it’s constantly moving. I have to keep up, otherwise I will be in the dark, in more ways than one.

The terrain is very steep and I have to descend about 600 metres. There is no path. There are muddy puddles, treacherous rocks, and grass that’s slippery from the rain. I’m sliding and balancing rather than walking. I can feel the heat from the burning log prickling in my neck. Cool, I’ve never taken a mountain hike like this before.

An hour and a half later, we arrive in the village. At the foot of the mountain, three women are waiting to offer you a flower, a biscuit and some wine for your achievement. My shoulder is feeling sore, but I can’t get rid of my log just yet. I have to visit the village church first, to pay homage to those who have gone before me. Then we do a tour of the town, at every corner there's applause and a glass of spirits to celebrate our feat.

Then, with a graceful arch, my half-burnt log gets tossed into the fire. There is more dancing and music. The TV show’s host Ivana and I raise our drinks and she explains a bit more about this amazing festival. “In the olden days these villages were very remote from civilisation and far away from each other. Men barely ever got to meet new women, so this festival wasn’t just a summer celebration, but also a way for men to meet women. Or the other way around. That’s how this unique sport came to be.”

Ivana laughs. I stare off into the fire. All this is to impress women. I think I have impressed myself more than anything. What an adventure. I’m pleased those cameras were on me and captured it. Very pleased.

Relaxing with some spirits.